by Dudley der Parthog, Greece Director, 2 May 2009
The quirkiest Greek island I have come across in nearly 30 years of putting together the Sunvil Greece programme has to be Ikaria in the north-east Aegean. Its remoteness (Samos 2.5 hours by ferry is the nearest island of any size) has ensured a self-sufficient, resilient population who don’t worry too much about what is happening outside the island’s shores. They live for the moment, as evidenced by the plethora of ‘panayiri’s’ – religious festivals which on Ikaria occur almost every summer weekend, involve plenty of the local organic wine and roasted goat, and can last up to three days each!
Magnificently mountainous, Ikaria is one of the most scenic and untouched islands in the Aegean – its interior, wonderful for walking, hides forests, mountain lakes, chapels hewn from the rock, and lunar-like landscapes. The coastline below has some Caribbean-like beaches, although beware the strong off-shore currents and high season waves which can restrict swimming.
Ikarian quirks include a ‘vampire village’ (Christos Rahes), which sleeps for most of the day and really only comes to life after sundown. Until recently even the schools didn’t open until the late afternoon, and the baker left his freshly baked bread outside his shop with an honesty box so as not be be woken up. Or the two churches, one at the top of the hill and one at the foot, who used to hold rival Easter services, each trying to outdo the other in terms of music, bells and fireworks – now a truce has been declared and, rather disappointingly, they alternate their Easter services. Ikaria is full of quirks like this.
The best person to fill visitors in is the personable Rania Mitikas who runs Dolihi Tours in the pretty fishing village of Armenistis. Her family is descended from pirates!
As befits an island named after a myth (Icarus’ waxen wings melted just off-shore) Ikaria is unique amongst Greek islands.
by Fiona Bartlam, Financial Director, 26 June 2009
My return ferry journey on the ‘Samos Spirit’ was even more relaxing, calming and wonderful than I remembered. This time we were treated to the sight of sea eagles soaring over the hills and woods of Samos, before being delighted by a school of dolphins spotted in open waters between Samos and Ikaria.
Sitting on the open deck, with the ‘Spirit’ chugging relentlessly away, with sensational indigo waters and white horse spray on either side of the boat, I could feel the stresses of ‘normal life’ rapidly seeping away. By the time the ferry docked in Agios Kirikos, and we trundled our suitcases off the boat past a handful of pickup trucks laden with fresh tomatoes, potatoes and patio chairs, I felt ready for anything.
And then the excitement of the trip to the other side of the island, on inevitable Greek cliff-hanger roads. Climbing steeply up the hillside behind the port, we were amazed that everywhere you looked, the countryside was so green, and crammed with wild flowers, pink cistus, and bright red poppies or yellow broom. Nearer the top of the mountain range we drove through acres of wild herb strewn hillside, with the heady scent of thyme, sage and curry plant wafting in on the cool evening breezes.
As we started to descend again, vertiginously, at what always seems excessive speed, I reassured myself that our driver had no doubt been using these roads all his life, and that the Greeks’ sense of balance seems equal to that of their own mountain goats. When that doesn’t work, I find you can always hang on tight, and shut your eyes! Reaching the coastal road, the mini-bus fought its way through small villages, where having one’s neighbour ‘just over the road’, meant the road was only about 8’ wide, and ‘corner houses’ no longer have corners. And eventually my destination, Armenistis. It’s not particularly pretty. It’s small and quiet, no night clubs, no lager louts, the friendliest of locals, a few restaurants serving fresh local food, two nice beaches, the best coffee shop ever; but that’s it!
But it was here that the magic that is Ikaria really started to work. Ikaria’s charm is indefinable, but within 24 hours everyone is captivated. The ‘Spirit’ has transported you here, and the ‘spirit’ within you is soon glowing contentedly. And when, after two wonderful weeks, I was dragged onto a ferry for the return journey, I was saying, ‘I’ll be back’ – and I will.
Ikaria; captivating, magical, spiritual, sensational. But please, don’t tell anyone!
Sunvil offers 7 night BB stays in Armenistis, Ikaria from £605pp at the Cavos bay Hotel in May. Based on Gatwick to Samos flights and includes transfers.
Ikaria is an island I had seriously thought about visiting this year until I read in the Greek Animal Welfare Fund newsletter about the so-called “barrel dogs” on this island. I think in many ways Greece is one of the best countries on earth and have visited many times, although the lack of concern for animal welfare has bothered me (and astounded me as the Greeks are such fabulous people in every other way). However, the treatment of these poor dogs, many of whom are only puppies, has put me off completely, even though I know that I would be unlikely to actually see any of them during any beach-based holiday. Is Sunvil planning to do anything to support the GAWF campaign? I know from my experiences in the past that your reps often direct holidaymakers to local animal welfare campaigns (usually run by people from Northern Europe and the UK) but it would be good to see Sunvil help spread the word about GAWF. Education with regard to animal welfare is essential and although Ikaria is only a small island, this campaign is extremely important.
Quite agree with you Ferryman's Daughter, and Sunvil has always been active in trying to improve animal welfare in Greece. We have had a link to the Greek Animal Welfare Fund (http://www.gawf.org.uk/) for many years now (see links page under Charities). We take a 'softly softly' approach and believe that education produces better long-term results than waving a big stick. Sunvil has provided financial support to a number of Greek animal welfare organisations, notably in Chania, Crete, where we have matched our client contributions for about 14 years now (so thousands of euros), and Sunvil have paid for resulting in thousands of euros going towards projects such as:
2007/8/9 new cat house renovations
2006 air con units for quarantine unit
2003/4/5 collection renovations to quarantine unit
2001/2 money went towards buying a new van
previous to that we have bought: washing machine/dryer/deep freeze/ gas heaters/ medicines, to name a few.We have also given practical help to similar organisations in Kefalonia and Alonissos – see http://www.kefalonia-animal-trust.org/html/helpfromsunvilgic.html.
It is a slow process but overall I think we are winning. The young Greeks are certainly much more aware of animal welfare issues – it seems to be a dwindling proportion of older Greeks who have such outdated views. On Ikaria, for example, the problem is being caused by as very small number of farmers, not representative of the average islander at all. Our agent on the island, Rania Mitikas, does have a local animal welfare collection box in her office.
My opinion is go and make your views known and ask how you can help – I don't think boycotting an island helps really.
I'm really glad to receive this reply and to get so much information on the specifics of what you have been doing. Maybe I'll keep Ikaria on my list after all!