‎In the UK, Ammouliani is one of Greece’s secret islands. To locals (the guy whose cafe served us his yummy potato and olive pie, frappes and baklava), it’s beautiful. We’re sitting in the sun, hats firmly fixed to heads, waiting for the next ferry to the island (having missed the one we’d intended, and the following one, due to distractions en route: the Poldark look-alike bare-chested goatherd and his band of followers – one with the largest horns I’ve ever seen on a goat – the wonderful fruit stalls in this land of plenty‎ and long avenues of pink and white oleander that just had to be gawped at – not to mention that impromptu lunch).

Some of the food and drink enjoyed whilst waiting for the ferry

Some of the lovely food and drink we enjoyed waiting for the ferry to Ammouliani

The car next to us in the modest queue (currently 10 cars strong) is a Czech-registered Toyota; husband, wife and both children speak English and tell us it’s their third visit to Ammouliani.‎ They stop over in Serbia en route to Greece. Our simple under-three-hour flight to Thessaloniki is indeed an easy hop and a skip compared with theirs!

A relaxing scene waiting for the ferry

A relaxing scene waiting for the ferry

We’ve watched one cargo ferry come and go and decide to visit the beachside cafe while we wait. Swallows are nesting inside the wooden bar, there’s a hammock and they serve us fresh orange juice with a sprig of mint (€8 for two, including use of their loo facilities), while clearly amused at my interest in the local wildlife – “we live in the nature here!” one of the young men proclaims.

The ferry arriving

The ferry arrives